Natural and Organic Emulsifers

• Montanov 68/ Vegetal : Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside
• Olivem 1000 : Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate
• Xyliance :  Wheat Straw Glycosides and Cetearyl Alcohol
• Cream Maker Anio : Glyceryl Oleate Citrate and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
• Glyceryl Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol and Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
• Oliwax : Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olive Oil (Olea europaea), Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
• Olivoil Glutamate : Sodium Olivoyl Glutamate and Cetearyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Stearate

 Xyliance

INCI Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glucosides (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

Accepted by Ecocert

Sold by The Herbarie (USA) and in Europe from Huiles et Sens 

This emulsifier is made of 100% plant origin where the sugar (xylose) is derived from wheat straw (hence the name) and the fatty alcohols are derived from rapeseed and palm.

This is the ideal emulsifier for beginners because it’s easy to use and creates very stable emulsions.

Perfect for rich cream textures which are non greasy. Very suitable for anti-aging or very hydrating creams.

To be used in the oil phase (70 degrees) .

Dosage:

4-5% for a lotion or serum

8% for a cream

ECOMulse 

INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Accepted by Ecocert and most organic certifiers

Derived from Vegetable (coconut, palm and palm kernel) and mineral (potassium).

Another easy to use emulsifier which creates smooth and creamy emulsions. Very versatile, as it helps create a wide range of textures – from milks to heavy creams depending on dosage used.

Imparts an elegant, smooth and cool feeling to formulation making it ideal for oilier/combination skin types, eye contour care, body milks and non greasy creams for the hands and body.

Works in an ideal pH range of 5-7.5 as outside of this pH range can de-stabilize the emulsion resulting in splitting or separation.

To be used in the oil phase (70 degrees) .

Dosage:

3% for a milk with added 0.3% xanthan gum to ensure stability

4% for a serum

5% for a lotion

8% for a cream

Important note: ECOMulse is anionic therefore it is recommended that is should not be used with ingredients that do not mix well with anionic ingredients

In the UK, where this emulsifier isn’t available as an all in one product, the alternative is to use Glyceryl Stearate (also sold as VE Emulsifier) with Sodium Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (also sold as  MF emulsifier) and Cetearyl Alcohol.

Olivem 1000

INCI: Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate

Accepted by Ecocert and most organic certifiers

This emulsifier is derived from natural olive chemistry. It is an emulsifier and thickener in one which is compatible with a wide variety of cosmetic and active ingredients over a wide pH range (3 to 12).

Safe and clinically tested to be hypoallergenic, it provides creams with an excellent moisturising effect and spreadability with a creamy, non oily, cool touch.

Ideal for wrinkle care for both eye contour and face, due to being very emollient and moisturizing.

To be used in the oil phase (70-75 degrees C)

Dosage:

5% for a serum

6% for a lotion or lighter cream

8% for a cream

If you have problems with the stability of this emulsifier some suppliers recommend using 5-7% Olivem 1000 with 0.5%-1% Glyceryl Stearate, 1%-4% Cetearyl Alcohol, and 0.2% Xanthan gum to form a stable emulsion.

Suppliers of these ingredients will be able to provide you with further details of how best to use them.

2. http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/4593/ 

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Creams using lotion pro 165

Lotion pro is one of the widely used emulsifier,

Light moisturiser for oily skin (Fats Appox 15%; Actual 14.5% )

Fat Phase  
Lotion pro   3.5%
Cetyl Alcohol 3%
Jojoba Oil 8% (optional 2% dimithicone)

Water Phase
glycerin 3%
Water qs
Xanthan gum 0.2%
Preservative 1%

A rich  cream (Fats Appox 25%; Actual 26.5%)
Fat Phase
3.5% Lotion pro
3%   Cetearyl Alcohol
15% Oil  (optional 2% dimithicone)
5%   Butter  (use only 3% butter and remaining 2% oils for face cream )


Water Phase
3%     glycerin
60%    Water
0.2%  Xanthan gum
1%    Preservative

A rich butter cream (Fats Appox 35; Actual 34.5%)

Fat Phase
3.5% Lotion pro
4%   Cetearyl Alcohol
15 % Oil (optional 2%  Dimithecone, 3%  Cyclomethicone)
12% Butter



Water Phase
3%     glycerin
60%    Water
0.2%  Xanthan gum
1%    Preservative

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Formulating a Moisturising bodywash with Natural oils

SLES 30kg

Coco betaine 12 Lts

Shea 1.2 kg 

Coconut oil 0.6 kg

SLES 32 (25.5% to 30% active ) 

CAPB 10

Water 50%

SLES 15kg

CAPB 

Points to remember, 

• Glyceryl Stearate or Cetyl alcohol to get the product to be more white.
• Or use a nonionic surfactant like Polysorbate 80 or PEG to emulsify the oils.
• add peg 150 1 – 2 %

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Ingredients for soap making

Ingredients  that go into soap are ,oils, water and water soluble ingredients, powders and the compulsory ingredient caustic soda. Don't get scared by this term, but there is no caustic soda left in carefully made soap. All caustic soda is consumed by fats to make soap and glycerin. 

Important Ingredients that are used

Olive- This is the first ingredient handmade soapers think about. Becoz it is very good for skin. It is does not disturb skins natural functions. It also produces nice hard bar of soap. But the lather is not present in 100% olive oil soap, And it is like washing your body with non foaming thick gel. We soo much associate lather/bubbles to cleaning. But 100% olive oil soap is cleaning but without lather. So we made a Castile soap with above 90% olive oil and little castor oil to be still very gentle on skin and boost lather.

• Coconut- Next mostly used ingredient. It produces beautiful lather and cleans very well, but beyond a certain percentage is drying to the skin.
• Sesame- It is very nourishing to skin, packed with antioxidants and nutritives. As a body message oils it draws impurities to itself and takes way while washing. Even as soap it does very well. It lathers wells, condition skin very well, But only thing we have to deal with is the nutty smell.
• Castor- Creates lovely lather(bublby and creamy) and is also moisturising.
• Cocoa butter- makes a very moisturising soap, leaves a silky feel.
• Silk- Leaves skin with unexplainable silky feel. I use cruelty free silk.
• Goat Milk- Cleopatra's secret. All milks are good for skin. But milk in focus lately is goats milk.Because it is packed with many, many nutrients.Also in Goat's milk the fat globules doesn't cluster together as result it is easily absorbed into skin.  
• Aloevera- packed full of nutrients.
• Oatmeal- It is very soothing to any kind of skin irritation, It also leaves a thin protacting  film over skin.. you just have to feel it.
• Honey- It is antibacterial and humectant (Something attracts water to itself, so result of using humectants, makes skin moistened and makes it look plum).
• Eseential oils-They are very concentrated plant extracts. Often posses wonderful aroma of that plant. I use them to scent soaps but they have to be used with caution as some essential oils are skin irritants.
• Fragrance oils- Not all fragrance oils can be skin safe. Only cosmetic grade fragrances can be used. 

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Why is cold process soap beneficial?

I love making cold process(CP) soaps. I have been making, using, gifting, selling them for 7years. Here is an interesting post on CP Soap.

1. What is cold process soap? Soap is made by mixing fats and caustic soda solution. After the mixture reaches certain consistency, it is poured into molds, it hardens in mold. This soap is very rich in Natural glycerine and very gentle on skin. Of course caustic soda will not at be left in finished soap. Industrial methods involve heating the thickened mixture(which is called Hot-process). There is possibility of extracting glycerine from Hot-process soap. And all commercial soap companies do it.
2. Commercial soap- It is still soap but without glycerin. And glycerin is their valuable by-product. It is sold to us in the form of lotions creams.
3. Transparent soap(Also called as glycerine soap)- Usually Transparent soap is soap + chemical surfacant + alcohol + glycerine.  It can be remelted and nutritive additives can be added.  In transparent soap maximum percentage of glycerine that can be added is 10-20%. While CP soap has definitely more glycerine. (One fat molecule produces 3 soap molecules and 1 glycerol molecule, which technically means handmade soap contains 25% glycerol molecules. But percentage by weight is little less than this becoz  soap molecule weight more than glycerol      molecule  ). Though transparent soap contain good amount of glycerine, it still has unwanted alcohol and petrochemical derived synthetic surfacants like SLS/ SLES. So we prefer CP soaps.    Article about glycerin-http://www.pioneerthinking.com/crafts/crafts-soapmaking/glycerin.html
4. More benefits of CP Soap- It is making soap from scratch. So we can have control over all the ingredients that go into making soap. 
5. Soap Chemisty- When caustic soda solution is mixed with oils, Soap(technically, is the alkali salt of a fatty acid) and Glycerin are prodused.  And water  is medium for caustic soda to react with fats. (Fats)  + (Sodium Hydroxide+ Water) =  Soap Molecules + Glycerol Molecule                             so from the above we can understand that any oil that is good for skin can be chosen and any liquid that is good for skin can replace water in making Sodium Hydroxide solution. So Specialty ingredients make Cold Process/ Hand made soap very special. This is not possible in commercial production.
6. What  Specialty Ingredients can be included in CP soaps? Fats like Cold Pressed oils(they have better nutritive values). Liquid ingredients like milk (which is 85% water, rest are fat and nutrients )   and aloevera . Also powders like  Clays,Fruit and Vegetable powders. Even fresh fruit and vegetable puree(Cucumber is almost 95% water) can also be added.  Who doesn’t want to bath with a product packed of full of vitamins, proteins, Minerals and enzymes??
7. Does CP soap need preservatives and why?  Here comes the beauty of Handmade soap. You can use freshmilk, aloevera, fruit puree, vegetable puree without any prevatives. While mixing Fresh Ingredients with caustic soda, it kills any live bacteria in water. 
8. What is pH of Soap?? pH of commercial soap is usually above 10, while that of handmade soap would be between 8-9. (Usually skin itself will return its pH of 5.5-6  after wash ). pH  Extremes like pH11+ and under pH 4 will irritate skin. But it is safe to use handmade soap of pH under 9. While we have been using commercially made soap of pH 10/11 since long time.
9. How is l Dove  pH neutra ? Dove is often claimed as pH neutral, but it is not soap alone. Citric and boric acid are added to bring down the pH to 7. So when soaps’ pH is less than 8 it doesn’t lather, so a synthetic surfacant is added to increase lather. All these additives may irritate some skin. While a good quality handmade soap cleans and nourishes skin in very gentle way. How gentle is again dependent on oils and ingredients used. 

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Essential Oils for skincare

Essential oils are highly concentrated volatile aroma compounds from plants. They are usually obtained from plant by steam distillation. They usually posses the aroma of the plant/part distilled. So that is the technical stuff. Some essential oils are very beneficial for skin, while some are dermal irritants. And most essential oils are used at a dilution of 1-5% .



Some Essential oils that are affordable and good for skin are palmarosa, lavender, patchouli, petitgrain, rosewood.
Other expensive oils that are good are rose, neroli, sandalwood, geranium, frankinsence.
Lists are never ending for aromatherapy-skincare.

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