Natural and Organic Emulsifers

Thursday, November 17, 2016 / Leave a Comment

  • Montanov 68/ Vegetal : Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside
  • Olivem 1000 : Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate
  • Xyliance :  Wheat Straw Glycosides and Cetearyl Alcohol
  • Cream Maker Anio : Glyceryl Oleate Citrate and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  • Glyceryl Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol and Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
  • Oliwax : Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olive Oil (Olea europaea), Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
  • Olivoil Glutamate : Sodium Olivoyl Glutamate and Cetearyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Stearate


 Xyliance

INCI Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glucosides (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
Accepted by Ecocert
Sold by The Herbarie (USA) and in Europe from Huiles et Sens 
This emulsifier is made of 100% plant origin where the sugar (xylose) is derived from wheat straw (hence the name) and the fatty alcohols are derived from rapeseed and palm.
This is the ideal emulsifier for beginners because it’s easy to use and creates very stable emulsions.
Perfect for rich cream textures which are non greasy. Very suitable for anti-aging or very hydrating creams.
To be used in the oil phase (70 degrees) .
Dosage:
4-5% for a lotion or serum
8% for a cream

ECOMulse 

INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Accepted by Ecocert and most organic certifiers
Derived from Vegetable (coconut, palm and palm kernel) and mineral (potassium).
Another easy to use emulsifier which creates smooth and creamy emulsions. Very versatile, as it helps create a wide range of textures – from milks to heavy creams depending on dosage used.
Imparts an elegant, smooth and cool feeling to formulation making it ideal for oilier/combination skin types, eye contour care, body milks and non greasy creams for the hands and body.
Works in an ideal pH range of 5-7.5 as outside of this pH range can de-stabilize the emulsion resulting in splitting or separation.
To be used in the oil phase (70 degrees) .
Dosage:
3% for a milk with added 0.3% xanthan gum to ensure stability
4% for a serum
5% for a lotion
8% for a cream
Important note: ECOMulse is anionic therefore it is recommended that is should not be used with ingredients that do not mix well with anionic ingredients
In the UK, where this emulsifier isn’t available as an all in one product, the alternative is to use Glyceryl Stearate (also sold as VE Emulsifier) with Sodium Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (also sold as  MF emulsifier) and Cetearyl Alcohol.

Olivem 1000

INCI: Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate
Accepted by Ecocert and most organic certifiers
This emulsifier is derived from natural olive chemistry. It is an emulsifier and thickener in one which is compatible with a wide variety of cosmetic and active ingredients over a wide pH range (3 to 12).
Safe and clinically tested to be hypoallergenic, it provides creams with an excellent moisturising effect and spreadability with a creamy, non oily, cool touch.
Ideal for wrinkle care for both eye contour and face, due to being very emollient and moisturizing.
To be used in the oil phase (70-75 degrees C)
Dosage:
5% for a serum
6% for a lotion or lighter cream
8% for a cream
If you have problems with the stability of this emulsifier some suppliers recommend using 5-7% Olivem 1000 with 0.5%-1% Glyceryl Stearate, 1%-4% Cetearyl Alcohol, and 0.2% Xanthan gum to form a stable emulsion.
Suppliers of these ingredients will be able to provide you with further details of how best to use them.






2. http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/4593/ 


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